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> Tikka T3 build/bedding
Tikka T3 build/bedding
@ 01:05 am (GMT) |
Martin TaylorG’day All,Just thought l would post my new build, a Tikka T3 S/S 9.3x62 to show how l go about building up a rifle with Nathan & Steph’s help! It is being built as a stalking/hound hunting gun for use in our Alpine areas, targeting mainly Sambar deer. Robustness, reliability & practicality are the main priorities for this build along with being suitable for my sons to use if needed! l like all my rifles to group consistently so bedding is a must for long term repeatability. I will be using a TBR bedding kit and under Nathan & Steph’s guidance, even though they are in another country! After a wet day or weekend hunting l need to be able to strip, clean & reassemble knowing the zero is spot on! The stock is a Laminated Boyd’s Classic that l will modify to suit personal taste, increase grip levels and dull recoil with its extra weight along with a Limbsaver recoil pad. A stainless cnc’d recoil lug will be fixed into the bedding to replace the steel lug supplied by Boyd’s. This will leave the original stock to be stabilised & bedded as a light weight alternative if needed later on. Should be fun, I will post some pics when l start it over the weekend! Cheers Marty |
Replies
@ 02:48 pm (GMT) |
Paul HorwathRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingI should have mentioned that functionally, the Atlasworx trigger guard is fine. It is pretty much a drop in replacement for the factory trigger guard. The fit and finish is good. Finish is available in anodized black or silver color. I chose the silver. |
@ 03:10 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingThanks for this update Paul. A couple of days ago a back county shepherd visited with his T3 which we went over (gave it a birthday). The plastic trigger guard had taken a severe knock and the trigger bow had snapped. He had super glued it together and it appeared to look and function just fine. But it is good to know that there are replacement parts like this around.Flat button head M6 is generally easier to obtain than tapered M6 so I think this is perhaps a plus. $2 versus Berretta's $60 for the screws. The bedding job looks good. For future ref and other users- a craft knife blade or chisel can be dragged across the shoulders to obtain relief while maintaining aesthetic appearances if need be. Either method is fine. Thanks again, really appreciate the update. |
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@ 07:12 pm (GMT) |
Paul HorwathRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingQuote: Flat button head M6 is generally easier to obtain than tapered M6 so I think this is perhaps a plus. $2 versus Berretta's $60 for the screws.
Thanks again, really appreciate the update. I agree Nathan. I like the fact that I can use flat shouldered button head M6 action screws. I consider that an improvement of the tapered head action screws. I also like the increased space inside the trigger enclosure which will allow extra clearance should one hunt in cold weather and decide to shoot with gloves on. Not sure if my post was clear on the larger gap that could allow dirt or debris to more easily get into the trigger assembly. So here's a photo of the factory trigger guard with a piece of white paper towel directly beneath the trigger slot. The trigger slot opening in the Atlasworx BM is about 3 times as large as this slot in the factory trigger guard. I would suggest Atlasworx reduce the size of that opening. 
The only other suggestion for improvement would be to chamber (round) off the edges of the aluminum that enclose the trigger. But that's minor. All in all I give Atlasworx a thumbs up. Good product. |
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@ 07:16 pm (GMT) |
Paul HorwathRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingQuote: The only other suggestion for improvement would be to chamfer (round) off the edges of the aluminum that enclose the trigger.
Sorry, I meant chamfer. |
@ 02:30 am (GMT) |
Ben LawRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingi like that replacement bottom metal!!!much better than the original! |
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@ 04:23 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingLooks like a good quality product that fits up well Paul and your bedding is nice and neat.Interesting that they reduced the surface area under the front screw. Guess they figure it will most likely used in a good stock with an alloy chassis or bedding. Should be a good shooter. |
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@ 04:20 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingWell after waiting for over 6 months l finally have some .375 225gr Hornady Interlocks in the mail!Once the swaging dies & the process are sorted out l will post a few pictures etc. I will be swaging or drawing if you like, down to .366 on my reloading press in 2 steps, which has been done by many others already. I am very happy with the Woodleigh 250gr RN's but wanted to explore the Interlocks after talking it through with Nathan. |
@ 03:40 pm (GMT) |
John RiddleRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHello guys, I havent recieved my comound yet so it gives me time double check a few things. Martin, did u plastercine the small hole in the stock beneath the bolt release pin? In your picture you filled the action with plastercine where the pin goes through, but not the stock. Also was wondering if anyone had a picture of a synthetic stock with the burn lines put in? Last question...Nathan suggested if putting pillers in first to counter sink them 1mm below compound, I want my pillers to stick out the bottom far enough so I can mill out the plastic floor wear and have the pillers contact the washer when the bottom plastic is installed. They will be quite a bit more than 1mm below the prepped stock, is this ok? Is there such a thing as too thick of compound? Thanks in advance. |
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@ 05:18 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHi JohnI very carefully machine the recess for the pin in the bed after using a Dremel with a flat bottomed bit. Make note of the depth of the recess and copy that into your finished bed, to deep and you risk the pin working out with the vibrations etc. You cannot have compound to thick, the more compound the better it sets. It’s a 2 part epoxy not activated by oxygen, so the more of it there is the better its cures. Make it as knotched and knarly looking as you can get without the high spots intruding on the 60-80 thou gap between the action & stock. Think ruff as guts! Hope that helps a bit John |
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@ 05:22 pm (GMT) |
John RiddleRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingJust a quick question about the release agent that comes in the matchgrade bedding kit, question is...I dont have any graphite powder, will the release agent be enough on its own? I also have heard of kiwi shoe polish, or should I stick with what came in the kit? I did tape the straight side walls of the action for relief, so Im hoping Nathans release agent will be plenty good with no graphite... Thanks in advance for any responses![b] |
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@ 08:05 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingYeah Nathans release agent works verywell, l used it many times on its own with excellent sucess.If you spill the container the kiwi polish you mention also works great. The graphite works verywell, but definately not a must have John.[b] |
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@ 09:35 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHi John, the release agent in the kit is Kiwi boot polish. It is the best release agent we have been able to find- best tolerances etc and far superior to latex.There are times when I still prefer to have something a bit extra. This may be due to job angles or when teaching newbies (See Jon Short's post in Howa 1500 thread). I would prefer to see something extra applied in this instance. You can use a bit of imperial neck lube (graphite), basically dip a blusher brush in the neck lube, then apply over the release agent. Another product is CRC 808 silicon (advertised as a mold release). You can also use this on your water proof clothing to add extra water resistance- so a can of this never goes amiss. I also had one client use talc powder and the job appeared to turn out well- but I have yet to experiment with this myself. FYI, I am using 808 over the bitumen coating on my quad bike frames (when 808 is on special). The bitumen spray (Septone or CRC rust sheild) protects the frames but the surface is sticky and mud clings to it. 808 is the best means to remove the tackiness. Waste oil is not so good as it eventually penetrates the bitumen and weakens it. |
@ 09:50 am (GMT) |
Jarrod KnightRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingThanks Nathan, Martin and all the other contributors to this thread, it is an absolute gold mine of information. I have two T3 supervarmints 243Win and 223Rem, it appears I have overtightened the king screws on the 243 and damaged the synthetic stock so I bought two Boyds laminate thumbhole stocks to put on the two rifles. While trolling around the net for bedding information several people on different sites were speaking well of Nathan and his products so I looked up his site and ordered two bedding compound kits, then found his instructional videos and then this thread. With this wealth of information I am confident I can come up with a reasonable result.I have two questions I hope someone can answer for me, in Nathans online instructions “Bedding a rifle with match grade bedding compound” he suggests bedding out to the balance point of a heavy barrel rifle (with bolt in and scope in place). In my case this would take the bedding out 10cm past the recoil lug approximately where the gold ring is on the scope in the photo, this seems a long way out, any thoughts? My other question is regarding the way the boyds stock steps up just in front of the ejection port. I noticed you guys did not raise the lower level up to the height of the upper level with plastercine so I assume the compound is viscous enough to raise up to the top of the lower level but not drain back out towards the lower level. I probably worded that poorly, if you don’t understand what I mean I will have another attempt later. 
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@ 09:54 am (GMT) |
Jarrod KnightRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingSorry! Late at night. Last paragraph should read as below.My other question is regarding the way the boyds stock steps up just in front of the ejection port. I noticed you guys did not raise the lower level up to the height of the upper level with plastercine so I assume the compound is viscous enough to raise up to the top of the UPPER level but not drain back out towards the lower level. I probably worded that poorly, if you don’t understand what I mean I will have another attempt later. |
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@ 08:56 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHi Jarrod, Do not use plasticine in the port area.The compound will rise and leach out. During the tack off phase, use hot water bottles and blankets, but check each five minutes and reshape or re-apply compound as needed. If the compound tacks off too much but needs shaping and contouring, use a very hot knife or hot sewing needles. But remember- check 5 minutes apart, no more. Do this up to the 20 minute mark. Make sure the job does not slump / suck back leaving undercuts- low spots. There should be a small bead all the way around apart for the tang. Regarding the balance point- this is not absolutely critical. I need to make this more clear in the online instructions. On a heavy long barreled rifle, a good compromise is 2.5" to 3" bedding into the barrel channel. On a light rifle, 1 to 1.5" is generally sufficient. Tikka place their pressure point ribs towards the balance point you mention but I have not found any need to bed this far. |
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@ 11:08 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingParroting what Nathan has already said!Keep an eye on the raised area as it will pull down to the lower level whilst curing. l leave the compound built up a fair way around those areas to combat this, then just machine (file) down to the tape (stock level) when cured. It will take a little longer to machine but it saves the shrink backs etc. Being that the receiver is straight walled you don't get as big an issue of trapping it in. Like say in a round walled Remington or simliar due to bedding being up over the middle of the round wall, which locks the action in the compund. Take your time, follow the steps, re-check, stand back every now & then and you'll have fun Jarrod, l still find it very rewarding part of any build! |
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@ 03:27 am (GMT) |
Jarrod KnightRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingThanks for the advice guys. For a practice run I bedded my old Brno Model 2, it turned out great apart from I was a bit coarse cutting the inlet for the mag and trigger. As a side note, when my wife saw me working on it she asked what I was doing, I replied "bedding my rifle" she said she somehow knew it would be a rifle and not another woman.Anyway, preparing now to do my T3 and I have a question about the recoil lug relief. I understand relieving with tape the top of the lug where it meets the action and the rear of the lug too, but I was wondering if one layer of PVC tape is enough top relief? The best I can measure PVC tape is 0.12mm this does not seem much. But obviously the more you relieve the top face the less contact you have where it counts at the front face. Is one layer sufficient or am I better off using two layers? Regards, Jarrod |
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@ 10:17 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingSick with one layer of tape Jarrod there is no need for more relief. As you have said keep as much lug contact as possible, it's on the small side as it is! I have started using slightly thinner loom electrical in some areas but thats another storey.I also started by bedding 22's and was amazed at the results, the rifles now consistently group tighter and better still repeatably. I don't own any rifles that arn't bedded anymore. |
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@ 08:08 pm (GMT) |
Jarrod KnightRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingT3 bedding turned out great. Regarding relieving the breech bedding, do you relieve the full breech face as shown in red on the first photo, or just roll the top corner of the breech face as shown in the second photo? 
Hope the photos turned out, I don't remember the code looking like that last time. |
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@ 11:39 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingJarrod l just releive like in your second photo, l also knock the "S" flat.Looks like it turned out nice mate, good stuff! |
@ 12:55 am (GMT) |
Tearon AshRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingI've been reading this topic for a bit now, and I'm looking for a bit of advice on my own Tikka T3 Superlite build.I had a couple of loads that were reasonably accurate <1 inch. I followed the bedding instructions in Nathan's book as best I could. The rifle double-grouped at first. I followed Nathan's instructions on carefully sanding the verticle walls of the bedding, and viola! it began to shoot really nice groups (0.5-0.7 inch groups). Then next time I went to the range... Bam! double groups again! This was with loadings that had delivered multiple 5-shot groups at or under 0.6" The only thing that has changed has been the average temperature that I've been shooting at. The temps have gone up about 10-15 degrees F since the rifle was shooting so well. Does anyone think that such a small ambient temperature change would cause the bedding to begin pinching the action again? Any other ideas what would be causing this new double grouping? Thanks! |
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@ 02:26 am (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHi Tearon, l have never had this problem so l will only put up some thoughts while l have lunch, Nathan or others may wade in with the right answers!Due to having pinched bedding which you fixed by relieving the sidewalls, higher ambient temps may be causing some additional problems due to the extra heat in the barrel & action. More retained heat = more expansion, so possibly touching on problem areas again. Some possible checks; Have you have the action out of the bedding since the first range trip? (settled in a different spot?) Do you have any witness marks on the bedding or action to show any tight sections? Action screw torques, are they the same as before, does the action climb when you undo one or the other? Shouldn't be an issue, but if your bedding is still a little suspect...... But as l said just a few thoughts mate! |
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@ 03:39 am (GMT) |
Tearon AshRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingMartin,Thanks for your suggestions. To answer your questions, I hadn't had the action out of the stock until after it started double grouping. I pulled it apart to have a look and put it back together with no change to the double grouping. I have fiddled with action screw torque since it resumed double grouping to no avail (50 to 65 inch pounds were tested). I didn't notice any witness marks, and I'm not sure how to know whether there is still tightness in the sidewalls of the action. I just relieved them the first time because of the double grouping, without really knowing how to determine whether they actually were too tight. Any ideas how best to determine if the sidewalls are too tight? Also, the way I test loads is to do a complete bore clean, followed by five or six fouling shots of the same bullet powder combination as I intend to test (this rifle generally settles into good shooting after 3 shots, but I use more just to make sure she's settled down and ready to shoot well). All shots, foulers and load tests are shot from a cold bore. Its tedious (and perhaps unnecessary) to let it cool completely between shots, but since this is a hunting rifle, I test from a cold bore only. I point that out only to say that there shouldn't be much retained heat other than just the 10 degrees of increase with the approach of summer. Thanks! |
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@ 04:29 am (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingTearon your test technique is spot on with such a light barrel! Not sure how l to explain the fit, snug but not pinched or trapped. You shouldn't need to pry or knock the action out with anything more than a very light nudge. Still sounds like a pinch issue but as said, l have no experience with this problem first hand, sorry. The answer will be in Nathans accursing book (at home!), but you should be able to look it up in yours, I'm certain it covers this exact problem and the fault finding steps to take. You could Visi marker the action then fit it up, "substitute blueing" and see what’s left behind........... just thinking on the fly here! Should show up contact on the side wall parallels or at least the heaver contact areas that may need more help. That’s all l can think of Tearon, good luck. |
@ 04:53 am (GMT) |
chris murphyRe: Tikka T3 build/beddingHi Tearon simple little test with rifle siting in some sort of cradle undo king screws and you should be able to lift action out with out it lifting stock |
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