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> practical guide to longrange rifles
practical guide to longrange rifles
@ 08:52 am (GMT) |
Trevor WilkesHi Nathan,My book arrived today great reading and look forward to future books no doubt my toilet visits shall be longer only place a bloke can get any peace. The bedding section got me curious so couldnt help myself pulled the rum apart to inspect bedding,the finish is great. But I noticed I had to work the action out of the stock it feels like its tight on the recoil lug I beleive this shouldnt be the case. Also up the sides of the stock inline with the recoil lug about a centermetre from the top line of the stock there is two little proud squares of bedding I believe from the curves in the recoil lug up near the barrel should I remove them. I could see them in the sendero stock in your book not real clearly but they seemed to be scrapped off not sure. Im thinking that this may have with the strange double grouping im getting now and then two shots cutting in half then next two an inch away cutting in half checked scope mounts etc stock tension. I think I might try gently freeing up the recoil lug area , what do you think of this I know its hard without seeing it I guess the worst is I wreck it and have to buy some of your bedding and learn how to do it myself. anyway again great read. Chees Trev. |
Replies
@ 08:02 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: practical guide to longrange riflesHey Trev. The best way to scrape lug bedding is to use craft knives or if you can find them, small chisels and needle files. A sharpened screwdriver can be used as a poor mans chisel. A burred chisel edge (burred screwdriver edge) can be used for scraping the bottom. Have a go and see what happens.The round faces of the recoil lug towards the top are not a major concern but the rearward faces are a concern, they may need a light scraping. Alternative: Do a small level of scraping, then work on the lug itself- if you are a dab hand with power tools. You'll need a small angle grinder and rolocs. Mask off the action, then use a 120grit roloc to disc off the bottom just a touch, the sides and the front face- though you will not be able to get right up the lug to where it meets the action. A gentle taper is fine. After this, deburr all edges- lightly on the rear face. Don't get all precious like some of these bench rest guys who are scared to breathe on their rifles. Give the faces that need relieving a light lick. As mentioned, you won't be able to get close to the action so there will be a taper effect. Don't go heavy, just a lick. Finish with Brown, red and blue rolocs. leave shiny. When doing trial fits, apply a light coat of grease to help ease the lug into the action. Bear in mind that if you tip the barrel back or forwards, the lug can feel trapped, even when its relief faces are relieved. If you use a lot of grease, a vacuum will form and make it seem hard to get the action out. Just be aware that a vacuum can trick you into thinking that the job is pinched when it isn't. Long description but really this is straight forwards once you get going. Worst case scenario, rebed the rifle, you can call me at home if or when you need help. How is the current rate of fouling Trev, please describe what you can see at the muzzle and how your patches look when using Boretech or Sweets etc. The other thing that can make a .300 RUM double group is a bipod. Remove bipod and shoot over sand bags as per usual during testing. You know the drill. |
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@ 10:32 pm (GMT) |
Trevor WilkesRe: practical guide to longrange riflesHi Nathan,Thanks for the feedback I will have a crack on the weekend got plenty tools. Another thing I forgot to ask is how far do you recommend to bed infront of the recoil lug on the factory sendero as there is only about 5mm at this present time. In regards to fouling it has settled down now, cleans up easy no heavy fouling not like at the beginning. In reference to bibod I dont use one on the bench I have a couple but have never used one ever, the double group thing may have something to do with the sling studs as it only happens now and then well I have removed them for the moment as I can see where they have been biting in to my tack bag. Anyway cheers again and I shall slip you another donation soon as I know your a busy chap. Oh buy the way I may just may pay you to pimp the rum coming your way late this year getting married again doing the honeymoon thing in NZ. Cheers Trev. |
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@ 11:20 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: practical guide to longrange riflesYes, you can try removing the stud closest to the muzzle, leave the rear stud in place as you need to be able to use the sling and maintain a good deal of tension.If the rate of fouling goes to the other extreme i.e, no fouling, you need to let me know about this also. I bed atleast 1" into the barrel channel, see the bedding instructions to see what I mean, the videos can be helpful too. ON custom rifles, I bed 2" into the barrel channel because True-Flite give me a 2.2" parallel to work with. Custom .300 Weatherby with long knox: 
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