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> Rifles general discussion
> stabilizing and bedding
stabilizing and bedding
@ 07:41 am (GMT) |
Rob.VHi Nathan,Just picked up a Rem700 VSF in 17 Fireball. Was reading your site regarding stabilizing, This stock will need stabilizing, my questions relate to the large voids in the action area. U advise to bed the action first before stabilizing, I have used your bedding kits before, i don't think there will be enough bedding compound in the kit to fill the voids and bed the action, so what to do? should i stabilize forend first and fill the voids in the action area and let this set hard, then key into the stabilizer in the action so the bedding compound has something to hang onto. not sure which way to go about it,, keep in my mind the reason i like this gun is because it is reasonably light and i don't want to add a heap of weight to it.. And thanks for all the advice on the 300 win mag sendero,, the bloody thing shoots like a laser.. Just one more thing the x-mark pro trigger can be successfully and safely take down to 1.5 pound, mines awesome.. cheers rob.v |
Replies
@ 06:36 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: stabilizing and beddingHi Rob, the instructions for both the bedding compound and Stabilizer state explicitly that stabilizing is to be done first, filling any skeletal voids in the action at the same time- before bedding. Photos are given in the online stabilizer instructions to clearly highlight this.Please read the guidelines and instructions carefully. One mistake we can all make is overlooking details when in a state of high enthusiasm. You made the comment that 'the' Mark X-Pro trigger can be taken down to 1.5lb. Please do not make such generalized comments. That is like saying, my Mosin rifle is accurate, therefore all Mosin rifles are accurate. Sounds silly when I say it like that doesn't it. You were able to take your trigger down to 1.5lb. This is not the same as working on this unit on a week to week basis. A few can be taken down to 1.5lb, many will only go as low as 3lb. But more disturbing, is that some will go down to 1.5lb, then over the course of months become lighter while also suffering the dangerous condition of slam firing. The Maine Police department report clearly highlights this. We have seen it here in NZ also. As a gunsmith, there can be nothing more frightening than not knowing how that trigger is going to be in 6 months time after the rifle leaves the shop. To this end, it is my standard procedure to recommend an aftermarket trigger unless an X-Pro has proven reliable at a light setting. I have an X-Pro here on a client rifle at the moment, has proven reliable at 1.5lb for the past year before the rifle came in for a trick up. Knowing this, I am happy to leave the trigger in place. I think your enthusiasm is great. Hopefully these notes will not come across as offensive but rather help you maintain awareness. Mistakes like this (bedding and stabilizer instructions) can be made by any one of us. It is important to read the compound instructions carefully. Your post may very well help another enthusiastic (perhaps over-enthusiastic) shooter to avoid similar problems as a result of assumptions. So don't be embarrassed. |
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@ 09:04 am (GMT) |
Robert ValeriRe: stabilizing and beddingHi Nathan,LOL, over enthusiasm well that is probably right, somewhere from reading your instructions on stabilizing to posting on the forum i got everything ass about face...I've gone back and read the instructions and everything makes sense again.. I am looking forward to doing this project with less enthusiasm and more caution... As for the x-mark pro trigger i understand your concern but to make light of the matter just want you to know i didn't tamper with it, it was done by a professional gunsmith in melbourne, but your comments have been taken on board and i will monitor how it performs over time, if needed it will get replaced.. cheers keep up the good work..!! |
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@ 06:43 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: stabilizing and beddingThanks Rob.MatchGrade Bedding Compound Instructions : Kits to be used under female supervision. |
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@ 09:40 am (GMT) |
Rob.VRe: stabilizing and beddingHi Nathan,Is pillar bedding useful on synthetic stocks or best on wood and laminate stocks, i notice u don't use pillars, what are their strengths and weaknesses.. cheers.. |
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@ 05:10 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: stabilizing and beddingI do utilize pillars, always on wood stocks, on glass over foam stocks, occasionally on laminates if I believe there is a weakness and sometimes on plastic stocks if there is a great deal of flexing.My pillars become countersunk after bedding as they are prefitted and epoxied in place. They cannot be seen from the top after bedding. In the online instructions, there is a photo of a Howa/WBY being prepped for pillar bedding. A photo of the finished job is shown at the bottom of the instructions. Depending on how heavy handed an operator is, it is possible to induce flexing in a plastic stock when clamping during the bedding process. Utilizing pillars helps prevent this- as long as these are the only two main points of contact. The barrel channel dam forms a third point of contact so it is important to make sure the dam does not induce stress if pillar bedding. There are no weaknesses when it comes to pillar bedding. The only negative is the time involved. For DIY users, it can be very time consuming and frustrating if the DIY users does not have access to accurate cutting equipment or materials. There are however some sources of aftermarket suppliers of rifle pillars. Pillar bedding allows for more hefty torque settings without stock compression or lug compression on the T3 rifle action. I have explained this in detail in the long range rifle book. |
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