@ 10:38 pm (GMT) |
Nick DawsonIm in the process of bedding my 5R .308, which is so far going nicely. The stock is mostly prepped and Im up to creating the barrel channel dam. Ive made a barrel channel dam and set the height reference ok, but what I cant seem to do accurately is to add a plastercine barrel support at the forend tip that is exactly coincident with the barrel channel dam and the tang height reference. At best there is a few thou of rocking along the length of the barreled action. What is the technique for getting this right? Do I add a tiny bit more to the forend support, accepting maybe a tiny float at the barrel channel dam and then just use a single bungee at the rear action bridge?I just want to make sure Im not inducing an stress into the bedding. Secondly the powdered graphite Nathan suggests painting the plastercine dams with is really hard to keep of the stock foam. I tried removing it from the inletted foam areas, but it remained there. Not a problem on the Ali chassis, but Im worried the graphite has made it into the pores of the foam and the epoxy wont adhere properly. Its not large areas, just a couple of spots here and there. |
@ 12:02 am (GMT) |
Bob MavinRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelAt the fore-end I wrap the barrel with electrical tape to centre & give me the necessary hight. |
@ 07:27 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelOK, looks like I am back into it after my hiatus. Guys, just be aware that I will be engaged in various research projects over this first quarter so I need to be careful with my personal energy resources.Right, two options for the barrel. 1. make the main dam very long so that it supports the barrel without need of the blob at the tip. 2. Make the blob at the tip from a ball of plasticing about 9 to 10mm round. Partially (50%) squash into place with your finger, then allow the barrel to squash the rest of the way. A ball of this size should be weak enough to crush to the right form, but strong enough to not crush down too far. If you need to, use a tiny 1mm ball at your main dam to check if the barrel is coming right down both fore and aft. Graphite - firstly, go easy with your application. To remove excess, use a q-tip and brake clean. This will ensure it is sufficiently broken down. The compound will adhere in this area. There is no need for any anxiety over this aspect of the job. |
@ 07:28 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelAnd yes, one bungee at the rear bridge is the ideal. |
@ 06:58 pm (GMT) |
Nick DawsonRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelThanks Bob and Nathan, should be set from here! |
@ 08:47 pm (GMT) |
Anders ÖsterbergRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelWhen I bed and want the orginal hight of the action I use to referens-bed two points with styrenbased car-body-filler .I first tape the points of the barrelchannel that I wat to bed . And then with at a throughly waxed barrel , or lined with one layer of food-plasticwrap , I screw down the action on the car-body-filler. This is the result , a perfekt hight of the support . If I want a dam I just do a thin clay-roll like a half o-ring seal . |
@ 11:10 pm (GMT) |
Nick DawsonRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelHad a fun night tonight putting the action and stock together with the bedding compound. What I did in the end was (as Marty suggested) wind tape around the barrel at the forend tip, and used a narrow dam about 15mm wide in the barrel channel. One rear bungee and job done. The hardest part of the job was keeping an eye on the slumping at the ends of the ejection port, but apart from that, so far so good! |
@ 08:51 am (GMT) |
Paul LevermanRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelAnders - have you had success with this method? I ask because in my twisted, convoluted and sometimes incoherent mind, I see what I perceive to be a major flaw in your method. What I see happening is the action and barrel being bedded to it's static position, without any residual strain being removed. Yes, it is properly bedded and supported, but it seems to me you are bedding it to the stressed position it had to begin with.I'm not trying to be a dick here, just need clarification on your methodology. |
@ 02:55 pm (GMT) |
Warwick MarflittRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelPaul you old Moose hound! I think you're right. Anders. Best of sticking to Nathans instructions. Have a look at the bedding tutorial videos. It's all there and easy to follow. The instructions are available too. Here below Links to instructions and videos.https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/MatchGrade+Bedding+Compound+Instructions.html https://www.ballisticstudies.com/site/ballisticstudies/files/MatchGrade%20Bedding%20Compound%20instructions%20pdf.pdf |
@ 10:06 pm (GMT) |
Nick DawsonRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelAction broken out (more easily than I expected) and the bedding job looks perfect, not a void or air bubble to be seen anywhere. Just a few nights of cleanup to go and then test it out.Ive done a few bedding jobs on earlier rifles (custom and factory) and looking back I can now see why they only ever shot well To be fair, they were done with acraglass and in accordance with the best methods I could find at the time. But looking at what I have done with this 5R, its a huge difference. Isnt it just the way, that my custom .260 (trued M700, Shilen select match barrel, McMillan stock) would never shoot better than 0.8 to 1 Moa, and was sold for 1:3 of the cost to build.... But. The two 13 bull tahr, various chamois and deer never needed anything more than the one bullet to put them on the deck. Oh the first world problems of a rifle enthusiast! |
@ 03:26 am (GMT) |
Anders ÖsterbergRe: Bedding with a heavy barrel@ PaulThe bedding in the barrelchannel is only for support when doing the real bedding to the action... When the stock-material is removed around the action , the action is totaly freefloating when resting on the supports in the barrelchannel , the bedding of the action will be totally stress free. One could also just do one suportbedding in the barrelchannel an leaving a little bit of the orginal surface of the tang-bed-surface as hight support , just like in Nathan's free video. After bedding is cracked open you just remove the supports ..... The filler support bedding in the barrelchannel have the same meaning as Nathan's plasticine support, but without the trail and error to get the right height and not get any seesaw effect. |
@ 03:58 am (GMT) |
Paul LevermanRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelGood job, Nick. I've found that if a barrel/action is a little stubborn coming out, an hour in the freezer will set it right. Shrinks the steel just enough to make it easier to get out.Thanks, Anders. Clearer now. |
@ 09:07 pm (GMT) |
gwen depRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelhi, I am from Australia. I just woke up and I think my bed sheet is calling me again, lol. well, I've noticed at the range that standard non-modified .308 Remington 5R rifles will typically offer much of the performance of a .308 custom rifle when using factory loads. Now I'm debating if spending extra for custom is really necessary from a performance point of view? Does anyone feel the same way? |
@ 01:16 am (GMT) |
Paul LevermanRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelHi Gwen. This is only my opinion, and probably (definitely) not a consensus at the range. The first step* is to shoot your new rifle and break it in properly. If it performs to your satisfaction and expectations, you are good to go. If you want it to perform better, it is up to you how far you take it. Start slow, follow the steps in the Book. For the average hunter, who wants good performance, cost is negligible, depending of course on model/make. Triggers, stocks, barrels, actions, all come at a cost. If you want to take it to the extreme, that is a personal choice that you have to make. Once you have your rifle where you are happy with it, isn't it, for all intents and purposes, a custom rifle? Along with all of this, comes the need to shoot, and shoot lots. If you don't use it, you lose it.I, and others here will probably agree, have seen all sorts at the range, who bought the biggest, best, and most. And they don't shoot any better than my $200 beater with a new barrel, a trigger, and a bedding job. *In actuality, your first step is to get the Book series, so you know what is important and what is not. Start with Book 1 and go. |
@ 07:01 pm (GMT) |
gwen depRe: Bedding with a heavy barrelThank you so much. I am now going to start with a book.https://www.elanlinen.com.au/bed-sheets |