@ 01:50 pm (GMT) |
Matt VincentThis is a question for Nathan, please.On the 'MatchGrade Bedding Compound Instructions' page you show your method of bedding a Tikka T3. You say, A Tikka T3 ready for full length bedding, the ali lug is wedged in place, metal to metal contact at the front face only. Use electrical tape to relieve the top (bottom as seen here) and rear face of the lug. Use two pot 5 minute epoxy to lock the lug in place- requires great care. Make sure no 5 minute epoxy seeps onto the front face of the lug. Now the part I don't understand about this is the taping off the rear face of the lug. Every Tikka T3/T3x I've bedded (all laminated stocks and one carbon aftermarket stock) the ali lug (now steel) is bedded completely in the stock only leaving the front face that contacts the action slot. The front face being the critical area and the rear not even making contact with the action slot although sitting proud of the bedding. The top surface of the lug is taped off to prevent a pivot point with the action slot but I don't understand why the rear and the sides of the lug would need to be taped off. If it is then the lug would be able to float about in the stock as it comes from the factory. Perhaps I'm misinterpreting what you've written. Excellent pics of your bedding instructions by the way. |
@ 07:33 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xHi Matt, yes you have misinterpreted the instructions and also added a bit about taping off the sides.The lug is problematic in that the smallest level of misalignment of the lug to the action will cause accuracy issues (e.g fliers). This is why we temporarily afix the lug to the action during bedding. The tape at the rear of the lug only extends down a few mm. It should be cut off so that it cannot be seen once the lug is set in the action slot.There is no tape left in the bedding once the job is finished. The bedding job starts with the lug attached to the action, but finishes with the lug fully bedded into the stock. We have a full video series on the Tikka, hosted via Vimeo. The video pertaining to the lug can be found here: https://www.ballisticstudies.com/shop/Video+Learning/Tikka+rifle+bedding+stock+and+action+preparation.+Part+4+of+Tikka+rifle+accuracy+series.html The video series goes into great detail, rectifying misunderstandings and shows potential operator induced errors. |
@ 10:33 am (GMT) |
Anders ÖsterbergRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xHello.If you look at this picture you can see the thin alu-tape in the rear of the lug , I use fastglue (cyanacrylate) . The lug should be pressed firm forward while the glue cures. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/05f436685e421447150ee785e97cc912.jpg Also take notice that the edge behind the hump should be masked of , I have used paraffin in this picture. The same procedure applies to the rear hump-edge at the tang . |
@ 10:53 am (GMT) |
Anders ÖsterbergRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xHere is the lug before the tape is trimmed of .https://www.dropbox.com/s/s7v92e9tqvmr4vo/DSC_0196_1.JPG?dl=0 |
@ 12:20 pm (GMT) |
Matt VincentRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xQuote: Hi Matt, yes you have misinterpreted the instructions and also added a bit about taping off the sides....
Yes, thanks for the reply. Very strange, the part about taping off the sides was included in this section when viewed yesterday. However, it doesn't appear there this morning when I looked. "The Tikka T3, Sako A7 and Savage Axis have a floating aluminum recoil lug which needs special attention during bedding. The front face of the recoil (facing the forend) is the only surface that should contact the action, other faces must be relieved. To ensure that the fit is correct, the top of the lug should be masked off and the rear of the lug should be masked off, trimming the insulation tape to suit. Following this, the lug needs to be glued to the action, being careful to make sure no glue dribbles onto the front face. Use a two pot 5 minute epoxy to secure the lug to the action. Once the bedding job is complete, the fine glue bond will break during removal of the action from the stock, leaving the lug in the stock where it needs to be. " I have never taped off the rear half millimeter section of the lug where it sits in the slot and just applied release agent in that area instead. The top of the recoil lug is always taped off and glued of course and the recoil lug pushed up hard against the front of the slot. Still, by taping off the rear of the lug in that area it would save (if it was of the right thickness) having to hold the lug hard against the front of the slot while the glue sets (I use superglue). Very similar to what Anders Österberg does except he uses an alu tape which makes even more sense than eletrical or masking tape. |
@ 01:12 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xHi Matt, taping the sides of the lug is mentioned in the instructions, but only as it applies to fixed lug actions.The online instructions, downloadable PDF, Practical Guide books, videos and my teaching material at the Sonoron Desert institute was not mysteriously edited overnight. |
@ 02:59 pm (GMT) |
Matt VincentRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xThanks Nathan. |
@ 03:10 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding A Tikka T3/T3xNo worries at all Matt. Yes, just a matter of keeping that relief to the rear. |