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Forum Index > Rifles general discussion > M700 Bedding questions

M700 Bedding questions

01 Dec 2013
@ 03:51 pm (GMT)

Nathan Foster

From email query. Main body of query not included.

Hi ......

Steph read your mail before me and commented- poor bugger sounds nervous. It is was a good point and reminder to me that DIY bedding can be very taxing on the nerves of end users. I will answer your questions below (under your questions) but I also want to address mindset.

I want you to try and balance two points of view. On the one hand, it is important to strive for perfection. But on the other hand, at the end of the day, your rifle is nothing more than some pieces of metal and fiberglass. It is not a child's life at stake. Of course, this does not mean we should be lax in our attitude, it is merely about putting the job into perspective so that it is not hard on the nerves which can invariably lead to making the very mistakes we hope to avoid. So while you work towards an optimum result, remind yourself that at the end of the day, it is not a life or death situation.

There is a possibility that you will stuff the job up. You need to face this. If you stuff the job up- simply do it again. You cannot expect an apprentice to do a job correctly the very first time so don't put such pressure on yourself. Hope for the best but plan for the worst. be realistic. If you are willing to face reality, you will become much more proficient with the rifle than if you cave and opt out of doing the job (or reworking the job) out of fear of making a mistake. You obviously want to step up your skills a notch. But to do this, you must accept failure as a reality before you begin. To free his mind for the job at hand, a good soldier accepts his death before he steps into the battlefield.

OK, please see answers below.

>
> Do you have a standard list of everything needed?
>
The standard list is in the online instructions. I thoroughly suggest you buy two kits to make sure that you have plenty of plastercine to work with and spare compound should rework be required. You will need a dremel for the chassis. Other things you can add to the list include a cheap can of brake cleaner, cotton buds and powdered graphite (gun store).
>
> What should I use as a releasing agent?
>
The supplied release agent. As an extra, I would recomend powdered graphite as per the tips and tricks video.
>
> Will taping the parts of the action put lines in the bedding?
>
There will be lines in the recoil lug recess and at the rear where the bolt release cut out is relieved. This is completely irrelevant. Have a close up look for yourself:



B&C stock...



>
>
> I have a Bell & Carlson medalist stock, do I have to removing and of the physical stock material?
>
Yes, you need to remove around 40 to 60 thou. Your stock has the same internal chassis and dimensions as the Sendero in the first videos. I work with both the B&C and HS on a week to week basis. There is no difference internally, both are a mil spec ratified design.

> I have seen people drill tiny holes where the bedding is applied, is this truly necessary? How would it help better the bedding?
>
Yes, it can help adhesion but do not drill holes deeper than 40 thou as this will simply create air pockets. The most important thing to remember here, is that if you have been handling both the plastercine and ali chassis, oils on your fingers can limit adhesion on the ali. Actually it is a combination of more than this- a blunt dremel tends to polish the ali which also limits adhesion once oils are introduced to the surface, both from our skin and handling the plastercine. The remedy is extremely simple. Just before you pour the compound, use brake cleaner and cotton buds to degrease the roughed up chassis. I don't generally drill into the chassis because the tungsten burr I (or Steph) use leaves a rough finish. But you may wish to create golf ball type divets with a drill.
>
> What is the best way to seal the Action screw holes?
>
As per the tips and tricks video. Use headless 1/4" UNF bolts in the action. Use tear drop plastercine in stock. But if you need guides, use drinking straws. Just make sure the straws are neither too tight nor too loose, the tops sealed off so that the 1/4' bolts don't go into the straw and become bound in the job. Worst case, pull the straws from the bottom.
>
> How much weight will this add to the over gun weight?
>
Generally speaking it will add 90 to 110 grams weight.
>
> I have watched videos where people use clay to seal the action, have you seen this? How is it removed? It appears all the videos end people a detailed brief on how to remove the material.
>
I used clay during my experimentation when developing the compounds. Clay is acceptable but not ideal. Please use the plastercine supplied.
>
> How long once the material is ordered from you before if arrives in the U.S. (on average)?
>
Generally speaking- two weeks. But there have been times when U.S customs slow things down or the delivery address is way off the beaten path. In such instance, allow 3 weeks.

Hope that all helps.

Replies

1
01 Dec 2013
@ 07:00 pm (GMT)

jason brown

Re: M700 Bedding questions
this was alerted to me in my personal email. if you click on the picture you get to see the funny one of the dog with earmuffs on next to the rifle. made me laugh!

but yeah iv been interested in trying this. is there any tips with different makes of rifles. the ones id start with could be either a ruger rimfire or a savage rimfire. there are many different kinds of actions is it just a matter of looking at them and seeing what would make a good imprint?
or should I be reading the book again...

im prepaired to stuff it up the first time, and a re-do may be on the cards. im guessing most people freak about there action being glued in for life.
01 Dec 2013
@ 11:03 pm (GMT)

Martin Taylor

Re: M700 Bedding questions
Nathans you tube video's and instuctions with his kits are the go, follow these they work!

look for points where the action will get trapped! ie gas vent holes, action deprssions and breech openings. It will flow to every possible gap that YOU leave.
Think of it like having your boot stuck in mud, the hold (suction) of the mud will trap your boot, even though you are only trying to lift the boot it's trapped. The mud forms perfectly around the boot.

But the biggest thing l have found is be super carefull not to put ANY bending stresses into the action or stock whilst the epoxy is setting! Easy to do with big heavy barrelled rifles.
Starting with your rimfire is exactly what l did for my first 2 bedding jobs, pinch points and relief areas can be trickey though, depending on how the action is designed. But basic the principles are the same.

Once you get past the "oh shit l could glue my gun together" its good fun and very rewarding!
02 Dec 2013
@ 01:47 am (GMT)

jason brown

Re: M700 Bedding questions
I found the 10/22 one thanks Nathan...

http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Resources/Articles/Bedding+the+Ruger+1022.html

not so straight forward, mine shoots ok, but after a few rounds in a string it starts shooting high and to the right. it was my dads from the 70's he used to shoot and skin possums. as far as I know its never had the band over the barrel. but maybe it came with one, I will ask him about why its missing.
I will have to read that link with a bit more care first.
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