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> Stabilization and bedding
Stabilization and bedding
@ 04:08 pm (GMT) |
Rob BirdHello all. First time posting here. I'm wondering what options there are for plastic stock stabilization since the "house brand" here at BS is not currently available in North America. I just got a Weatherby Vanguard that I want to accuratize. I figure bedding compounds will be easy enough to find though I'm certainly open to suggestions for that as well.Thanks |
Replies
@ 06:00 am (GMT) |
Scott StruifRe: Stabilization and beddingHi Rob. I’m no expert, but since nobody has responded, . . . If you don’t have it, you should download a copy of the book, Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing & Maintenance. In it, Nathan discusses why he developed his stock stabilizing kit: pourable, lightweight, premeasured mix ratio, plastic container that can be squeezed into a spout, etc. He made it easy for DIYers. If you don’t use a bipod, use a double wrapped sling hold that exerts pressure rearward rather than laterally on the foreend, and cradle the foreend in your hand, as opposed to resting it against a hard object like a tree or rock (which would change the POI, stabilized-foreend or not), you may not need to stabilize the foreend. You can always stabilize the foreend after bedding the action. The book also covers the recommended order-of-business for Howe’s: lap the lugs, get the trigger down to 1.5 lbs., evaluate and possibly hand-lap throat & barrel, then worry about the stock. |
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@ 02:57 am (GMT) |
Rob BirdRe: Stabilization and beddingThanks for responding. I don't really need to be sold on the idea of stock stabilization. I was more looking for an alternative to Nathan's product since I currently can't get it here in the U.S.There are many options for bedding, but I'm just not sure what to use for stabilization. |
@ 07:20 am (GMT) |
Magnus VassbotnRe: Stabilization and beddingHi Rob, and welcome!Same situation here in Norway with regards to Nathans compounds, so I just used the same epoxy I use for larger jobs on windsurf boards. A low viscosity (runny) epoxy that fills in well. It does have a bit of crimp, but not so that it breaks free from the sides in the fore end. Used it on a Tikka plastic stock with great success. Used a normal slow cure, no crimp, medium viscosity epoxy glue with fiber glass powder for the bedding. Have used it to bed 7-8 stocks now, and it works well. Tried Acraglass a couple of times, and didn't really like it. This glue from swedish Casco is more forgiving to work with. But would prefer to get my hands on Nathans products. So Nathan, could it be an option to just buy a large enough shipment to make it worth while? Say 5 sets of bedding and stabilizer? M |
@ 11:56 am (GMT) |
Florida Cracker (Mike Heyl)Re: Stabilization and beddingNathan has written several times (and included discussion in his DIY videos) getting epoxy to adhere to plastics of any kind can be difficult. For decades (stating with surf board repairs a really long time ago) I have been using West System epoxies for repair and building projects (non-firearm related). I have been pretty successful bonding PVC to PVC with this flame oxidation preparation. Originally I used West 105/106 but more recently have been using the G-flex product. Hope this helps keep the stabilizing stuck solid. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/flame-treating-plastics/#more-10396 |
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@ 12:47 pm (GMT) |
Florida CrackerRe: Stabilization and bedding - Follow Up CommentI should have included this in my previous reply. The G-Flex I use is pre-thickened and maybe not suitable (too viscous) for filling plastic forearms. Not sure if this epoxy is available a non-thickened form. My PVC projects were for simple part -to-part adhesion - not filling projects. |
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@ 09:14 am (GMT) |
Rob BirdRe: Stabilization and beddingMuch thanks to both of you for your replies! |
@ 08:26 am (GMT) |
Jon ShortRe: Stabilization and beddingHi Rob,Jon from Kiwi land here. I assume that this is a plastic stock you are prepping? My first fore end stiffening & bedding project was the difficult rubber over plastic Hogue stock with a Howa. I used Nathans products for both & he very kindly tutored me through how to go about the job. I bought his books & watched his videos. Suggest you take some time to do the same regardless of what products you use as its the prep of the plastic that matters. Re products & recall someone from the US posting the same problem sourcing Nathans products due to shipping costs so he got some guys together who wanted them in the US & bought enough to make shipping worthwhile & then couriered them to the guys he'd organised who wanted them over there. In prepping the fore end I used a fine tipped knife heated up in a gas flame & then riddled the plastic surface area being filled with hundreds of piercings into the plastic so as to create a really good raised physical bond to the plastic. Worked perfectly. I think Nathan also said that it did something to the oils in the plastic that helped too, but I believe the main requirement is to create that really rough raised surface for the resin to adhere to. The bedding prep I did with a dremmel. The rubber top edges were not to easy but I found a small sanding attachment worked best. The plastic & rubber was then prepped in the same way I did the fore end with the hot knife. Be careful doing the rubber! This rifle is my go deer stalking rifle & has now done a lot of work. I bedded it 7-8 years ago & the bedding & fore end stiffening is still as good as new. It is a really durable all weather stock that will continue to give me many more years of service I would say. Hope that helps, Jon |
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@ 01:42 am (GMT) |
Rob BirdRe: Stabilization and beddingThank you for the information, Jon. I have a few rifles to bed, all wood except one is a plastic Weatherby Vanguard.I would be willing to become a North American distributor but that, of course, is up to Nathan and Steph. |
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@ 01:42 am (GMT) |
Rob BirdRe: Stabilization and beddingThank you for the information, Jon. I have a few rifles to bed, all wood except one is a plastic Weatherby Vanguard.I would be willing to become a North American distributor but that, of course, is up to Nathan and Steph. |
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@ 09:56 am (GMT) |
Florida CrackerRe: Stabilization and beddingRob - I believe there already is a North American distributor. Paul Leverman is a member and I recall a post by him when COVID was really heating up. I found the old post and in it he mentioned that he was distributing under the name Nechako Distributors. I had a few email exchanges with him last year about Nathan's products. I think (?) he is in Canada.As a follow up to my last post to this thread - I checked and West does produce un-thickened GFlex but I'd go with Nathan's goop if you can get some. Mike Heyl (Florida Cracker) |
@ 10:58 am (GMT) |
Cooper BybeeRe: Stabilization and beddingWell I just checked the Nechako page and it says, Covid-19 “Unfortunately, we will have to suspend all sales for the foreseeable future. We apologise for the inconvenience and thank you for your understanding.” So, what are we to do? Is anyone out there sitting on some vacation hours that they need to burn up, who is also interested in a trip to NZ? And is also willing to risk defying international trade agreements by filling their carryon bag with bedding compound? I’d chip in... I did Nathans Bondo Mock bedding 20 months ago and proved that the barrel on my new rifle is worth continuing with...but now its groups have opened up and it is well past time to bed this rifle properly. I may just mock it up a second time, as it held for 100+ rounds and wait patiently for distribution supply chains to heal. |
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@ 01:14 pm (GMT) |
Florida_CrackerRe: Stabilization and beddingCooper- Thanks for the update.Rob- Maybe Nathan would include you as a distributor. Ask him. Florida_Cracker (Mike Heyl) |
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@ 02:12 am (GMT) |
Rob BirdRe: Stabilization and beddingI did mention it to him a couple of months ago. |
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