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> Rifle bedding question
Rifle bedding question
@ 04:15 am (GMT) |
Howard AudsleySpecifically, when relieving a wood stock around the recoil lug, I assume you also relieve on action side of the recoil lug, such that it is recoiling against bedding compound and not the original wood. i think that is the case, but have not seen that mentioned specifically.But if you do, I assume you want to leave a bit of the original wood intact for lug to be placed against during layup so it gets bedded in place to same exact position fore and aft as it was originally? Rifle in question is a Howa 1500 with heavy varmint barrel in factory laminated stock. Trying to decide if effort is warranted, as it is shooting 1 MOA or less now as it came out of box. Barrel is not free floated, action is not bedded, no pillars. |
Replies
@ 11:56 am (GMT) |
Scott StruifRe: Rifle bedding questionHi Howard. The Accurizing & Maintenance book will help you. You might want to work on the trigger and bolt lugs before proceeding with bedding. If you decide to bed it, you’ll need to relieve the recoil lug recess so the rear of the lug contacts bedding material, not wood. |
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@ 10:01 am (GMT) |
Howard AudsleyRe: Rifle bedding questionHave the book and have been thru it more than a few times. Very well described, except for part about what to do with recoil lug recess. To relieve that or not. If you enlarged the recess to the rear towards the action, what fixed reference remains for the action to align to? If you left a small bit of the existing wood and relieved on either side if it, as was described for relieving around the tang section, it would seem to do the same thing. Recoil would then be against the bedding material.By the way, have reviewed numerous youtube videos on topic of bedding actions, and if you take Nathan's instructions for how to as the standard, 99% of the rest of them are downright scary. I had a local smith bed a Rem 700 for me and it was not good. I had to do to surgery on it after the fact. From that, have concluded if I need to do another one, will attempt it myself. For now, trying to patch the holes in my understanding of process from start to finish. The Howa is shooting about .75 MOA as is, which for my purposes is OK. May be best to leave it alone. |
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@ 11:06 am (GMT) |
Scott StruifRe: Rifle bedding questionWith the rear of the recoil lug seated against the inlet in the stock, your fixed reference is the position of the rear of the tang. Leave a sliver of stock material under the rear of the tang as a rear height reference. For the front height reference, use the pressure points in the for-end, and sand them off after bedding. |
@ 01:21 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Rifle bedding questionHoward,I won't lay out TBR instuctions in full but basically. The entire action needs to be allowed to "free float" in the bedding compound when using TBR instruction. No stress applied with applicable taped reliefs. Height is set with Plasticine dam or dams. Along with possibly tape around the barrel to align barrel channel during prep. Front to rear alignment with taped studs/pins in action screw holes before final relief is made in stock for compound to flow into. Hope that helps! |
@ 09:47 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Rifle bedding questionMarty, thanks for answering this, I got a bit behind here. |
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@ 11:00 am (GMT) |
Scott StruifRe: Rifle bedding questionThe instructions in the book are for the Hogue stock, which has no pressure points, and is free floated. So you need to align the barrel in the forend with tape. Howard said his laminate stock is not free floated. I jumped to the conclusion that it had pressure points. If that’s the case, the pressure points could be used to align the barrel. As stated on page 85 of the Accurizing and Maintenance book, “If the barrel is not currently free floated and utilizes pressure point pads, these pads can be left in place until the bedding is finished - free floating the barrel as a final job.” |
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