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> Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLE
Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLE
@ 08:30 pm (GMT) |
Les MulloyHi to allNathan Your recent video Re: bedding Mk 1V 303 has inspired me to do a full bedding job on a sporterised No1 Mk 111 I have , in a plastic stock. Would the proceedure be basically the same ? - I was particularly interested to see that you bedded 6 inches of the barrel channel - should I do likewise ? The stock I have is fairly heavy for a plastic ( cannot remember the brand but is U.S. made ) and seems to be quite rigid i.e. no flex. If you have covered this topic in your latest book , I will hold off till I get it. Best regards ---- Les |
Replies
@ 09:03 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLEHi Les, yes, covered in the next book. Neveretheless...The sporter stock will be fine with the usual means of addressing the barrel. Bed 1.5" into the barrel and up to 2.5" if you want to experiment going further (you can always grind it back!). One of the key factors, is that after bedding, you check the bottom metal to make sure it is actually clamping the stock in place. You will probably need to bed underneath regardless- just the area either side of the trigger (two little strips either side of the trigger). I have actually done this on the rifle in the video but did not add this to the vid as I ran out of time. When I bedded the underside, I shimmed the front a bit during bedding. Two slivers of business card will do. Insert these where the front action screw would normally sit, between the bottom metal and stock. When you bed the floor plate, apply zero pressure (no bungee). That way, after the underside bedding at the trigger well is complete and the shim is removed from the front, the bottom metal will be under tension when the rifle is assembled. Put another another way, the goal when bedding the underside is to bed the stock where the trigger passes through it - in such a way that it draws a small degree of tension when the rifle is assembled - but without causing any misalignment of the cross screw. Hence why I shim the front and not inside the action at the rear. I hope that makes sense. Good luck with the job. |
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@ 09:06 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLEOne thing, you may need a stabilizer fill first if the forend is skeletonized. Not just for flex but to avoid an overly bulky fill (running short on bedding compound or mechanical air bubbling). |
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@ 10:19 pm (GMT) |
Les MulloyRe: Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLEThanks NathanYeah -- The barrel channel is quite deep and I was a bit worried about having sufficient compound to bed 6 inches along it. Thanks for the quick reply and extra info -- I'll get stuck into it !! regards -- Les |
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@ 05:22 am (GMT) |
Les MulloyRe: Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLEG'day NathanJust to let you know --- my 303 turned out really well --- 174 woodleigh PP = 3 shots into .865 215 woodleigh RN = 3 shots into 1.30 at 100 I went the whole hog with it this time -- put in a front pillar and got the trigger down to 4lb -- + a recoil pad -- bedded 1.75 past the knox - amazing what these old bangers are capable of with a bit of technology Your bedding compound is an excellent product - very solid result -- I am going to redo my 6.5 Swede next. Cheers Les |
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@ 05:48 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding No1 Mk111 SMLEThats great news Les. You will be able to have a lot of fun with the SMLE. There is so much history to the SMLE, a part of our heritage. It really is great to get these old rifles shooting well. |
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