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> Necking down 308" to .264"
Necking down 308" to .264"
@ 01:39 pm (GMT) |
pete clarksonI have a heap of good 30-284 cases I wish to neck down to 6.5mm (.264")Presume I can use a .284 Win die to get them to 7mm then the 6.5-284 die to get them to the final size. Is is best to anneal the necks before the sizing operations or before sizing? Although I've been reloading since 1972 I have never done much case annealing. Any tricks of the trade appreciated Cheers, pete |
Replies
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@ 01:42 pm (GMT) |
pete clarksonRe: Necking down 308" to .264"Doh !!! I mean "before or after sizing" ....LOL |
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@ 09:53 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Necking down 308" to .264"Hi Pete, if you scroll down the knowledge base menu, you'll see my annealing set up (annealing VLD and SST projectiles).Differences: I have a pile of lee case trimming pilots here. each pilot comes with a shell holder for the trimming tool, resulting in spare shell holders. I use these spare shell holders for annealing cases. I simply epoxy them to the bottom of my water pan. If you anneal first, then size, the case will be placed under the least stress. If you neck down, then anneal, the annealing will go further (case longevity). I tend to anneal before I size because it means I can leave the old primer in, that way the inside of the case generally stays dry. I don't know why I get so paranoid about trapped moisture as I dry the cases thoroughly anyway (usually low heat in the oven). I anneal to a dull cherry red. if you go hotter, the case collapses when you seat a fresh projectile. I let the case cool naturally,some people used to tip the cases into the water but the trick with annealing is slow cooling. I anneal the shoulder and neck (water level 2/3's up the case), then I use a welding glove to pluck the case from the shellholder/water pan, I then lay the case on an old towel. Its very old fashioned but efficient. You can size down to 6.5 in one operation if you wish, as long as the die will handle the reforming, it should be fine. You'll just have to play that by ear. If you have over annealed the cases, then it gets trickier as the shoulder can collapse during forming. In this regard, it can be better to anneal after forming. After firing a few rounds at the range. Take a spent case and try to pass a projectile through the case neck. if it does not pass through easily, you may have to neck turn the brass. Otherwise, chamber pressures from the tight exit will prevent you from reaching optimum velocities and your optimum velocity/accuracy sweet spot. I hope I have explained that OK. |
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@ 12:15 pm (GMT) |
pete clarksonRe: Necking down 308" to .264"Great explanation, thanks very much Nathan you help is much appreciated.A few of the cases have been fired more than once so probably could do with annealing anyway. Have a great week and safe shooting :-) pete |
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@ 12:56 pm (GMT) |
Jim MoseleyRe: Necking down 308" to .264"How many times can you anneal a case? 7 mm rem mag ... Win brass |
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@ 09:32 am (GMT) |
Ross GoldsackRe: Necking down 308" to .264"Quote: How many times can you anneal a case? 7 mm rem mag ... Win brass
As many times as you need to. I generally do it every 5 or 6 reloadings. I have just done a batch of 7RM brass and it has really improved accuracy, I think it might have been my best group ever !!! |
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