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> Bedding a savage 110
Bedding a savage 110
@ 02:15 am (GMT) |
Dan DunnHave enjoyed your book on accurizing but with my first attempt at bedding my 30-06 it went from 1 3/4 in groups to 5-6 in groups! Suspect my recoil lug bedding is too tight. Relieved only the edges of the lug and bottom. The only reference found regarding savage that I found in the book was re: an axis in which it was recc to relieve the front side of the lug. Would appreciate your suggestions. Thnx. |
Replies
@ 02:57 am (GMT) |
Thomas KitchenRe: Bedding a savage 110hi Dan.sounds like you needed to relieve the muzzle size of the recoil lug, from memory the savage is a round action similar to the remington, so best to follow the video. you could file out some of the bedding but i suggest you wait for few more comments from other members that are much better at bedding then myself. have you got any photo's as this will help out? |
@ 03:28 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding a savage 110You had it right Thomas.The books (and bedding section of this site) do go over the Savage action but there is so much to read that I can well understand if info is not found. Key factors: Bed from the front of the trigger well forwards, leave the tang / trigger area floating. The lug is the same as the M700 apart from the locator key at bottom center of the action. Simply cover this with tape or plasticine. As for the lug, tape the front, bottom and sides. The barrel nut should be taped off and relieved. You then bed forwards into the barrel channel a short distance. If you want to bed the actual nut, use plasticine within the nut key cutouts and then use extra release agent to ensure there will be no binding in this area. I believe you will find that this job is a bust and that relieving the front, bottom and sides of the lug may not help. I have a feeling that the stock came under stress during the set up and so you have both factors at play. So- you need to relieve the lug, then do the 1 O'clock test from the books. If the rifle fails the test, then set about a full rebed. You are the second person to contact me today having been caught out after reading my books, then using another brand of bedding compound. The former reader did his best with what he had but due to the differences in viscosity, the product he used was inferior for the job at hand. And here I can see the potential for the exact same problem. This is self marketing at its best sorry. The instructions I supply are certainly universal, but the products available for bedding sometimes cannot cope with some of the real world challenges of bedding. My apologies for any salt in this bedding wound. I hope the above instructions help get you back on track. Remember, any fail is simply another chance to master these skills. In this regard, do not muck around too much with trying to fix the current job. Do the basics (relieve), check the fit, if the job is under stress, take your dremel and grind it right back, then start over. Hope that helps. |
@ 11:46 pm (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Bedding a savage 110Viscosity is a major trap to fall into for sure!!!Devcon is a readily available product thats often used as a substitute that can place a lot of stress into the action during bedding because of the amount of pressure needed to "force into the home position" due to its thick viscosity. Which is multiplied if ambient temps are low! I offer this as a warning along with a plug for Nathan's great product. I use the other product at times but have learnt the hard way, it has limitations that need to be understood. The more complex the action the harder it is work with. As many on here are well aware, any stresses imparted during bedding will give you all sorts of problems. A viscous product like Nathan's goes a long way to help making the action drop into the correct bed height without any need to load it up. Typing on my phone but l think it's legible |
@ 05:28 am (GMT) |
Paul LevermanRe: Bedding a savage 110How ironic! I was going to post about my 110 bed job, but it was so off the wall, I figured it wouldn't fit here anyway. Some hints though, as I've done three now. Previously have used the "D" product with some limited success. It works, just not very well. Enter Nathan, and his research. A God send for Savages! It flows well, gets where it's needed, but, for some reason I have problems with air bubbles. I realize this is pure aesthetics, but still... In regards to the recoil lug and the barrel nut, I mold plasticine into nice gentle curves, almost identical to welding fillets. Not only does this make it neat, but there are no locking edges or voids. The nut is filled and "filleted" the same way, and you get a perfect release when you knock it loose.Take heart, Dan. The first 110 I did looked like Nathan lent me old Sarge for the day. The third time I did my first one, it was ok considering I used the Brownells glass kit, but that is even worse than the "D" crap. I went back to "D" and tried a fourth time and finally got it right. It wasn't easy playing with temps trying to get it to flow into the right places. Now, with the Match Grade, one shot and it's done right. (Thanks, Nathan) |
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@ 07:53 am (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Bedding a savage 110With the bubbles l have found the following PaulMake sure the unmixed TBR kit is warm (not hot hey) Once mixed tap the mixing container on the bench to get the bubbles to rise (give it a good bash) Poor as Steph shows in the YouTube instruction, in very small and flowing runs that move into voids (no soft serve ice cream patterns here) And as a finisher a very light couple of passes with a heat gun as Nathan also shows will help bring the little buggers to the top! And away you go! |
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@ 03:19 pm (GMT) |
Paul LevermanRe: Bedding a savage 110Thanks Martin. As usual, the old guy forgot something. I didn't give the mixing pot a rap on the bench. That would probably do it. Like I said earlier, it's only aesthetics, and I may end up throwing this stock out anyway, it was cracked in two places and this was a salvage attempt. We will see what happens when the trigger is pulled. |
@ 03:37 pm (GMT) |
Bryan WebsterRe: Bedding a savage 110As one approach that I prefer for Savage rifles, you could try looking the Savage products at this web site. Every rifle I have fitted a stock like these to has performed well. Certainly it is lower cost to bed them but if that fails then this is an alternative:http://www.bellandcarlson.com |
@ 12:05 pm (GMT) |
rob vRe: Bedding a savage 110Hi,Haven't been here for a while, wanted to chime in cause i just read something im not sure about. Have bedded 4 savages so far using Nathans Bedding compound, the guns shoot great. Nathan in your reply to the post you mentioned to tape the front, rear and sides of the lug. I have never taped the rear of the lug as going by your previous instructions of tape the front and sides of the recoil lug.. Do you have a different method for savages or is this just a typo mistake.. Cheers Rob. |
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@ 07:36 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding a savage 110Thanks Rob, yes a typo and now edited. My apologies to Dan, I hope this step was not followed.Thanks again Rob, good to have you guys watching over me like this, I really am grateful. |
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@ 04:32 am (GMT) |
Dan DunnRe: Bedding a savage 110Ok. Will tape sides and front of lug. Two questions though. Do the sides of the stock get ground down 1.5 mm and bedded all the way from rear action bolt to front action Bolt? And should bedding extend forward of the smooth barrel nut? The nut is 2.2cm in length itself. Thank you all for your thoughts and input. And Nathan I will be buying your product which I' m sure has been the best studied and tested. [b] |
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@ 01:57 am (GMT) |
rob vRe: Bedding a savage 110Hi Dan, here are some methods that have worked for me, I have done 3 jobs with bedding supporting the barrel and 1 gun i switch barrels so have only supported to the recoil lug..In supporting the barrel, tape the sides and front of the lug as nathan suggest, rather than use clay on the nut i usually wrap around 4 or 5 times with tape, this will make sure your nut has no contact with the bedding then proceed to support the barrel knox with bedfding as nathans instructions. The tape i used is from Brownells and is wider than your standard electrical tape so it covers the width of the nut nicely. as far as the recoil lug locating pin i dont cover it with anything i just make sure it has enough release agent over it and bed it as normal. then when u crack the stock out i dremel that area enough so the locating pin is relieved. When bedding just to the lug with no support under the barreel do the same process but also add 4 to 5 rounds of tape to the barrel knox, so i still actually bed and inch or so into the stock but because the barrel has been taped it is actually relieved so only make contact to the recoil lug. this is my preference as i feel it just adds a bit of strength to the bedding in that area. hope this helps.. and if im doing it wrong hope i am corrected,, but the guns do shoot great.. cheers rob. |
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@ 03:48 am (GMT) |
Dan DunnRe: Bedding a savage 110Thanks Rob. Not sure my newer savage 110 has a recoil lug locating pin...where would I find it? Also do you drimmel out and bed the less than vertical ejection port portion of the stock i.e. Sides of stock between front and rear bedding? Is real narrow on right, less so on left due to larger surface area of action. |
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@ 11:22 am (GMT) |
robert valeriRe: Bedding a savage 110Hi Dan..Im not sure about the 110, I only have model 12 which are the target actions although one is an early one which is a repeater. the recoil lug locating pin is like a press fit in the recoil lug which locates in a slot in the bottom of the action on the model 12's. I've never owned a model 110. Bed the action from the rear screw which is normally in front of the trigger forward to an inch or so in front of the recoil lug, Depending on the stock your going to have to remove some material from all around where the action sits where you want to bed. I always do as nathan suggest a good stout bedding job i try to make mine at least 60thou minimum (1.5mm) thickness, if there is room for a little thicker then why not.. More is definately stronger. Remember to Key into the stock and drill some small hole at angles to lock the bedding in and don't forget to float the tang. My first bedding job didn't look pretty but it sure did shoot better. once you do one you will quickly learn what not to do next time.. Cheers |
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@ 11:27 am (GMT) |
rob vRe: Bedding a savage 110Quote: Hi Dan..
Im not sure about the 110, I only have model 12 which are the target actions although one is an early one which is a repeater. the recoil lug locating pin is like a press fit in the recoil lug which locates in a slot in the bottom of the action on the model 12's. I've never owned a model 110. Bed the action from the rear screw which is normally in front of the trigger forward to an inch or so in front of the recoil lug, Depending on the stock your going to have to remove some material from all around where the action sits where you want to bed. I always do as nathan suggest a good stout bedding job i try to make mine at least 60thou minimum (1.5mm) thickness, if there is room for a little thicker then why not.. More is definately stronger. Remember to Key into the stock and drill some small hole at angles to lock the bedding in and don't forget to float the tang. My first bedding job didn't look pretty but it sure did shoot better. once you do one you will quickly learn what not to do next time.. Cheers |
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