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> FFP advice??
FFP advice??
@ 09:30 pm (GMT) |
faulknerI need some help in my scope choice. I have a NF 5.5x22-56 that I really like but the only draw back is when I use the reticle for windage hold, often I am not shooting at 22 or 11 power (1 or 2 MOA hold off) and I have a hell of a time trying to work out the actual magnification vs reticle value, Something fool proof and quicker has got me thinking of a FFP scope but have no experience with them. I do realize that the reticle at high magnification can obscure the target but on deer size game at up to 800 yards is this a real issue? Any input or a picture would be appreciated.Thanks, Aj |
Replies
@ 11:29 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: FFP advice??Hey AJ, my primary experience is with Shmidt Bender FF plane. I don't see any problems with the target being obscured, no worries there. I do however have a problem with the rubber power ring, it can slip when rotated so that it leaves the power ring behind while the rubber outer keeps spinning. I have never looked into a fix, has to be one though. I think as long as you are aware that it can happen,it can be overcome, compensated for (hold it tight!). The SB scopes come in MOA (as an option) as opposed to metric only- which is a boone.You know what AJ, I have never taken a long shot on less than 24 power. I spent so long shooting a 12 power Loopy that I never looked back once I had that extra power available in the Sightron. I have developed fast target acquisition at 24 power over time. I know a lot of folk struggle with target acquisition, have to dial out then in again. I have the benefit of time in the field, others are not so lucky. Its not like I can say- practice every day, take your rifle to work, see how fast you can line up on the office next door! I think you are now at a point in your life where you could do the same as me. You are doing lots of hunting and range work. So I think either way is fine for you, whatever you choose, you will master it. Its just a habit at this stage. If you get into the habit of dialing out, you'll keep doing it. During the tutorials, if I see too much dialing going on, I will put a stop to it and ask the client to focus on acquisition from 300 yards out on full power. hard at first, easier as the days and months progress. So I think habit is part of it. Hi, my name is Nathan, its been three months since I last dialed. |
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@ 07:25 pm (GMT) |
faulknerRe: FFP advice??Thanks Nathan,I usual shoot at the highest magnification but there has been time that all that did was intensify the fog or I dialled back to try and spot my own shot cause I was alone and needed to see reaction of the animal,,, or my miss! Your post is good advice/observation, I'll try and look though a few scopes and see what turns my crank! Thanks, Aj |
@ 10:48 pm (GMT) |
Jim MoseleyRe: FFP advice??Vortex has a FFP for $900. I've been shooting with the 8-32x56 Nightforce for 14 years and like Nathan, I stay around the 22-28 power mark and dial in. Something about dialing just feels good. All said and done, its a matter of hand eye coordination which just takes lots of practise. Acquisition of target at high magnification will become second nature in time. |
@ 01:41 am (GMT) |
Matt ReidRe: FFP advice??I have a scope where the mil-dot values are only accurate at 12 power where as max value is 18, which is where it usually stays for long range. I like using the mil-dots for windage hold-offs also.Using the Shooter app, I created a correction value for my mil-dots at 18 power, so the values shown in the calculator are accurate at 18 power. To do this I divided the max power (18) by the calibrated power (12) which equals 1.5. I entered this value as the correction factor into Shooter for windage. This means for example, if my calc gives me a 2 mil wind holdoff I can just use the mildots at 18 power knowing the correction value is incorporated. Not sure if this is helpful, Matt |
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@ 08:44 am (GMT) |
faulknerRe: FFP advice??Jim/Matt thanks for the replies, I'll have a look at the Vortex, I didn't realize that they had FFP scopes, and for the money they appear to be a good product, I have shot a friends 260 with a 4x16 Viper and was quite impressed with clarity and it seamed to track accurately and its units "MOA" seamed spot on so I will definitely have a look! Jim when you say "dialling in" you are meaning turning your windage knob for correction?I to have been using the Shooter App, I supplement a paper ballistic cart and use the correction factor for getting Leopold scopes to track properly to MOA vs inches. I use Night Forces program and a blank spread sheet that Nathan taught me to transfer data for building paper charts. You system is very helpful Matt, I'll try and work something out for my charts. Thanks guys, really appreciate the advice, Aj |
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@ 01:24 pm (GMT) |
Jim MoseleyRe: FFP advice??I dial in spin drift and just hold off for wind. I have a MOAR reticle with 1 MOA increments. |
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@ 03:32 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: FFP advice??That fog sounds annoying. FFP would be good option for sure. In first reply, I wrote about refraining from zooming out and in as a potentially bad long range habit. Those comments are obviously redundant in this situation.For me personally (staying with Sightron seeing as I am an agent and am unfortunately speaking from a biased point of view sorry), I would use the "Drift in feet" column on my drop chart if I had to wind the zoom back. I usually have to wind back to 6 power at dark (after the sun sets). I can see out to about 700 yards while there is still light on the horizon, then down to 6 power and 300 yards for about 5-10 minutes, then its game over. If a full moon rises, I can then see again out to 300 yards or so. Again, the above is not advice, it is just how I do things, you may be happier with an FFP. |
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@ 06:40 pm (GMT) |
faulknerRe: FFP advice??Well looked though a Vortex 6x24 FFP today, I compared the cross hair to a building down the road at approximately 500 yards. As the magnification goes up the cross hair really gets thick, maybe too thick and at 6 power the reticle is ready small. I had some time to think on the drive and I think I need to do some testing with a normal second focal scope and try some techniques such as Matt and you described Nathan with your "how you go about doing things";) It is really all good info for me to digest! And as for your Sightron bias, your on the light side and its a solid reliable product.Thanks!! Aj |
@ 12:07 am (GMT) |
Gavin ChauRe: FFP advice??I love my FFP scopes - I use a march tactical FFP (3-24) just makes wind holds and second shot corrections much easier (especially since I dont always shoot at full magnification purely for ease of spotting the fall of the shot) but the downside is it can be a huge mistake not to get the illuminated reticle - especially for a high zoom ratio scope.I've found that at dusk waiting for pigs to come down the mountain to feed I needed to wind down my magnification to around 10-12x which can make the scope basically unusable without an illuminated reticle - true its only for a short window each day (but thats the window that pigs often use to start moving from cover to their feeding areas) If you also use the same rifle for spotlighting, the illuminated reticle helps as well (but I've found is not as crucial as a true low light situation like long range shots at dusk which really test your scope) - I usually spotlight at 4-6x magnification. The cross hairs on the march with a 10:1 zoom ratio are VERY fine at this level of magnification |
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@ 11:05 am (GMT) |
faulknerRe: FFP advice??Gavin thanks for your input! I have decided to stick second focal for the time being as most of the ffp Ive looked threw either the cross hair grows to large for my liking as magnification goes up or to fine as it goes down. The real attraction for me and the ffp is the cross hair sub-tension staying constant. Some day I will purchase a ffp scope, I think I could best put it to work hunting coyotes in winter.Thanks! Aj |
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