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> Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!
Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!
@ 05:01 pm (GMT) |
Tony PitzoffHello all,I’m looking for some insight on my new build. I have purchased a Browning X-Bolt, Hells Canyon Speed 26 Nosler. The optic is a 4-16x50 Nikon Black X1000 MOA, non-illuminated reticle, mounted on a Tally 20 MOA picatinny rail, with Leupold 30mm rings. All in all, a nice build to poke out beyond 600 yards without after market expenses. A nice toy to begin with until I can afford one of Nathans customs builds soon, when I come to visit friends and hopefully hunt with Nathan for a few days! Observations: Two field visits to the range and I was unable to achieve a “zero” at two hundred yards. At 100 yards. The reticle vertical adjustment on the optic is on position 6 (out of 10, full turret adjustment and shooting low at approximately 6" This is seriously confusing to me and my mentor. We are both decent marksman and have setup many rifle systems previously. My thinking is along these lines; The purpose of the 20 MOA rail is to increase the availability of the useable reticle of the scope. Nikon specifications, specify this as a 90 MOA scope, even though their math doesn’t add up, Seriously check it out! so technically I should be able to achieve an additional useable range of 20 MOA. Ideally the initial, available 45 MOA of the optic, plus the rail specified at 20 MOA, added together equals 65 MOA in total, to play with! A nice number to work with as long as your have vertical adjustment left on the turrets! Which I was clearly running out of! At this point I parked the rig, to reflect, seek advice and try to understand why I was reaching the upper limit of the turret vertical adjustment prematurely! Problem areas; I am reaching here a bit… 1. Riflescope optic flaw 2. Picitinny rail build flaw 3. Misunderstanding, somewhere…. 4. Browning rifle build! Perhaps the attachment of the optic to the rifle, on the rear where the scope is fixed, sits lower than the forward attachment point…. I will add that upon close inspection the Installation of the rifle scope, rail and rings onto the rifle is solid! Very confusing really! So, any insight and comments would be appreciated! In peace, a friendly Canadian, Kind Regards, Tony |
Replies
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@ 07:34 am (GMT) |
Tony PitzoffRe: Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!Hello all,I spent some time this morning reviewing this topic and have discovered that I have misunderstood the adjustment of the setup for attaining the zero with this build. Sorry for troubling you all! Cheers |
@ 02:55 pm (GMT) |
Andrew MurrayRe: Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!Glad you got it sorted! |
@ 02:29 pm (GMT) |
Robert McLeanRe: Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!Hi tony,Trish says hi. Noal needs a hunting rifle, all he has is that broken savage. Going to set him up. |
@ 08:25 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Browning X-Bolt Long Range - Nikon Black X1000 Riflescope - Problems with zero at 200 yards!Hi Tony, OK, it may be that the finish on the action was rough and that it has been buffed down a bit too much at the rear before blasting. Seems quite a large error though.Also check that that nothing is pinched. Yours will have the mag box attached to the floor plate and should not pinch up like others, but do check that everything fits smoothly in the stock and that the barrel is floated. Check that the knox section of the barrel (start) is not being forced up, not just the forend tip. Check also the scope screws. Fit them one at a time starting at the front. Fit the first, then wriggle the base. If the base wriggles, then the screw is impacting the barrel shank and will be affecting harmonics. Fit the second and check for protrusion. If its protruding, it will kick the upper bolt lug down and put it off center. Check for scratches on the lug. Then check the other screws for protrusion. If all is well, fit and re-bore sight. Generally, the bore sight (using the bore as an actual aperture) should give you some info. If the bore sight goes well but the rifle then displays a major disparity, then there is some kind of harmonic / stress fault as per the examples given. Alternatively, if the bore sight goes poorly and things are out of whack, then we can look to the action finish or rail itself. To others- I believe it is important to actually eyeball the bore in this manner and become accustomed with bore sighting (provided the action design allows for it). Becoming reliant on lasers etc weakens your problem solving skills if you become reliant on them. Many aids are much the same, anyway, best to not get sidetracked down that path. The turrets on the Nikon have a set range. Its hard for them to be out by a large margin. Such a problem would be rare unless there is a burr or some such interference making it feel like the thread stops halfway down. But this situation is a bit different. It may be that you have to shim but in this case, I believe you would need two shims of either brass or ali, laminated with epoxy. Do take note that you can gain another 20 MOA using Burris rings. If the rifle has a brake, take it off for now and work with the bare barrel, just in case gases are kicking things around. Also, keep in mind that from here, I can only try and guess factors. I could be wrong about any or all of this. It may be something entirely different that I have not thought of. In any case, I hope this gives you some go forwards. |
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