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Warwick Marflitt

Being an auto sparky. Ive rigged up a few spotlights over the years. Voltage drop is the enemy caused by skinny crap wire and switches with small contacts and small connections. All effect the brightness of the lamp. My current light has got 6mm twin cable, soldered connections and a 12volt 130w Halogen bulb running on a gel Battery. Its super bright. Road markers 1km away shine out easy....... None of the "modern" LED spook lights can match it for picking up eyes or for pure white brightness!!! The only bad feature is that if you put it glass down on a seat its that hot that it will melt it....... It holds animals in a daze. It's light and easy to hold. It began life as a $35 Motorcraft cigarette plug spot light from an Auto supply shop. I pulled it apart and fitted new 6mm square x 1meter long twin flex cable, a heavy duty 15amp switch. I soldered all connections and fitted a hi quality 130w Quartz Halogen bulb. There's something about halogen light that's better than LED's. I guess it like Full cream milk from the cows tit Vs some watered down permeate laced light green milk from the sooper-fake-it chain store.
When I fit spotlights to my cars. I wire the power for them through heavy duty fuse holders from the Alternators positive output terminal and earth them to the case of the Alternator. I run 6mm cable and use a twin headlight relay to switch them on. What this does is it supplies full charging voltage 14.2 Volts to the globes/Bulbs. Higher voltage means less current draw and brighter whiter lights. Some headlights only have 11 volts at the bulbs because of losses through the fuses, cable relays and earths. Check the voltage at your headlights with the motor running and see how much your loosing.......